Ornamental mounting and method of making the same



G. w. DOVER ORNAMENTAL MOUNTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Oct. 12 1926.

Filed March 20, 925

Patented Oct. 12, 1926.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

GEORGE w. Dovnn, or LONGMEADOW, nnonn ISLAND, As'srGNon To JUSTIN HENDER- SON, or LAncnMoNr, new YORK.

ORNAMENTAL mormrrne AND METHOD or MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed March 20, 1925. Serial No. 1 7,008.

This invention relates to an ornamental mounting andi'n'ethod of making the same which is adapted for use in the production of jewelry articles, such as pendants, necklaces, brooches, earrings, pins, bracelets, buckles, rings, dress ornament-s, etc.

Onev object of the invention is to provide an ornamental mounting of pleasing appearance and unique design so constructed as to give the appearance of being formed of a metallic fabric material which may serve as a background for a suitable gem setting or other ornament.

Another object of the invention is to provide an ornamental mounting formed from metallic fabric material, so arranged and supported asto give the appearance of being formed entirely of fabric throughout, the said fabric material being adapted to receivea'depos'it of precious metal of a desired color thereby simulating the appearance of certain ornamental woven fabrics.

Other objects and advantages of the invention relate to certain combinations of steps and methods of operation adapted to facilitate the constructionof the ornamental mounting and enhance the artistic appearance of the completed article.

In the accompanying drawings forming a part. of the description of the invention Fig. 1 is a plan view of the basic material from which the mounting is formed. the

. )EII'tS bein arran ed in the osition which they occupy at the first part of the shaping operation.-

Fig. 2 is an enlarged vertical sectional view taken alongthe line 22 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 isa plan view of the material shown in Fig. 1, the edge portions thereof being upturned as in a further step of the shaping operation.

Fig; 4 is; av plan view of the material. shown in Fig. 1, the edges of the material being. inturned and folded over towards the center. I

Fig- 5 is a plan view ofthe struct-ure similar to that shown in Fig. 4, but showing the provision of a seat for the gem setting and an opening formed at the center thereof and in the rear of the position to be occupied by the gem. A

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the completed mounting, and,

Fig. 7 is an enlarged vertical sectional view of the same, taken along the line 77 of Fig. 6. V I

In the form of the invention illustrated herein, 1 designates a plate of thin flexible metal which serves as a base for the ornamental mounting and imparts thereto a sufficient degree of rigidity to insure that it will retain its shape under ordinary conditions of use, 2 is a relatively coarse mesh metallic fabric which is positioned next to the metal base 1, and 3 designates a relatively fine mesh metallic fabric which is placed over the coarse fabric 2 and farthest from the. metal base.

In the formation of the ornamental mounting as above described, it is an important feature of the invention that metallic fabric 2 be interposed between the metal base 1 and the metallic fabric 3. If the metallic fabric 3-is placed upon'the metal base 1 without the interposition of a separate fabric 2 therebetween, the light will strike through the interstices in the metallic fab ric 3 to the metal base 1 and be reflected therefrom thereby disclosing the presence of a metallic base plate and destroying the desired and pleasing effect of depth which is obtained by interposing a layer of fabric bet-ween the metal base and the outer fabric 3. The layer of metallic fabric 2' also serves to give greater rigidity to the completed .structure and thus insure that the fabric folds 6, formed in bending the fabric will retain the shape and form imparted to them under. the usual conditions of use. While the fabric Qefnployed may be ofthe same mesh as the fabricB, I prefer to employ a fabric of somewhat coarser mesh next to the metallic base, such. for example, as 80 mesh to the inch, while I prefer to employ a finer mesh, such, for example, as 100 mesh to the inch, as the v outer fabric layer which is designated by the numeral 3 in the drawings. p y

1 preferably form the metal base land fabrieQ of approximately the same size, and

the fabric sheet 3' slightly larger than metal base plate 1 so that a margin 4 of the fab material where bent over the metal base 1 entirely therearound, the three layers are held together by the inturned edge folded against the metal plate 5 and may be manipulated together as a unit.

The composite sheet ma .terial thus termed is then bent u nvardly at its edge preferably about a central tormer (not shown) each side oi the (n'i'au'onal shaped sheet being bent upwardly as a unit whereupon thc niatcrial assumes the torin shown in Fig. 53 of the drawings, the portions at the corners of the octagonal blank forming folds as indicated at (h and the remaining portions forming upstanding portions 7 between the folds 6. The central ormer about which the edges of the composite sheet are bent may be round. oval. or any other desired contour, depending upon the shape of mounting; desired. but in the'present instance the irmer is oit oval shape as will be seen upon retorence to 3.

as at The tip-turned cd 'es 7 ot the composite material shown in 1:2. 53 are then bent inand (lOlVllihlTllY against the inner ot the metal base plate 1, the folds curved as desired to add to the ornaappearance of the mounting wherewardly surface (5 being); n ien tal upon th mounting assnnrs the appearance shown in Fig. 1 01'? the drawings.

At this stage in the construction of the mounting, a seat 8 may be :tormed upon the intolded ends of the composite material for the reception of a gem setting, the seat being formed by pressing a suitable die thereon or in an;' other d sired manner. An 0])011ln3; 9 also preter; bly formed in the center of the conipofiite sheet anzl directly behind the seat tor the gem set ing tor the purpose of admitting light at t rear of the e em.

it this time. one or more SUppOltS may be rucured to the ornamental mounting by means oi? which the san'ie may be secured to a necklace. earring}; or other device to which the same is to be attached. As one form 01 511111170113 which is found to be adapted for this PIUPOFQ, I have shown an eye-pin 1O novided with a slender shank 1.1 and havinn a collar 12 cooperating therewith.

The insertion of the eye-pin 10 in the ornament e tl'ected by first forming a small opening through the fabric and base plate with a suitable ii'ercing tool, the opening being su'liiciently small to barely admit the shunt: 11 ot the eyep'in. The collar 12 is then placed over the shank 11 and the shank forced into the opening formed in the it is held largely by friction but may be firmly secured by melting a solder in such position that the same drop ot will flow around the shanlc 11 and firmly sec ire it to the fabric 3 and base plate 1. i

l't will be seen upon reference to Fig. 6 01' the drawings that the intnrned fabric inaterial is formed to provide radial folds 15 neoaeie produce a plear-angr and artistic. ei'l'ect, it is to be understood that the JHYLiliJlOIl is in no way to be regarded as limited to the particular 'raiurenient or term ol told as shown herein since i am aware that the tabric may bi shaped and arranged in various we a and with various :torn'is and coinhinations o't pleats and folds to give the same an ornamental and pleasing appearauce to the eye. gem setting 17, provided rith an upwardly extending rim 18 for oi'erlyiup; the edge of an ornan'iental stone 19. is placed upon the seat 8 formed as previe 1. described and lirmly secured thereto by soldering or by any other suitable means. i back plate 20 having a central opening therein of similar contour to the opening f) and provited with an interned edge 21 surrounding); said central. opening is secured to the hack of the ornamental n'iounting by si'ilderine or otherwise. The back plate 20 is secured to tl e back ot the ornamental mo ring in such a manner that the in turned edge Q-lprojects within the central opening 9 to partially or wholly conceal troin view the raw edges or the inturned fabric.

The metallic fabric 3 may be formed of a precious metal as gold or silver or may be made up of a suitable base metal and a platie oi p old or silver applied theretoat a. :-:nita..le point in the imniu'lact-nre of the mounting.

From the above description, taken in con nection with he accompanying drawings, it will be seen thatl have provided a novel method of l'oi'ining an ornament which is of pleasing and artistic appearance and which is capable if use for a variety of dillerent purposes in connection with jewelry and allied arts. While I have set itorth with considerable particularity the exact construction oi one term of the ornament and the particular steps and sequence of steps which may be employed in its constructioi'i, it is to be understood that the ornament is capable of considerable modification in form, shape and arramrenient oi": ornamental features as well as in the various steps and sequence of steps employed in its formation, and I therefore do not desire to be limited to the exact construction shoi n and described nor to the use of the exact steps and sequence of steps employed. except as the same may be in eluded within the terms of the following all a sheet of composite material the edges of which are folded inwardly therearound to serve a background for an ornament, the said composite sheet being made up of a plate of bendable metal, a layer of metallic fabric, and. a second layer of fabric material interposed between said plate and said lirst named metallic fabric, the edges of said composite sheet being folded to expose to view the layer of metallic fabric and conceal the plate of bendable metal.

2. Ainounting for jewelry comprising a plate of bendable metal, a layer of metallic fabric positioned upon one face of said plate, and a second layer of fabric material interposed between said plate and said first named metallic fabric, the edges of said plate and fabric layers being folded inwardly upon the metal plate to form upon one face of said mounting a plurality of radially extending folds of metallic fabric. 3. An article of jewelry comprising a mounting formed from a sheet of composite material including a plate of bendable metal and layers of metallic fabric positioned upon one face of said plate, the edges of said composite sheet being folded inwardly upon said metal plate to conceal the metal plate from view; and an ornament seated upon and firmly secured to the inturned edges of the outer layer of metallic fabric.

a. An article of jewelry comprising a mounting formed from a sheet of composite material including a plate of bendable metal and layers of'metallic fabric positioned upon one face of said plate, the edges of said composite sheet being folded inwardly upon said metal plate to conceal the metal plate from view, said mounting being provided with a central opening, and a gem secured to the inturned edges of the outer layer of metallic fabric'and overlying the opening in said mounting.

5. An article of jewelry comprising a mounting formed from metallic fabric material overlying a metal plate and having the edges thereof inturned to provide a seat for an ornament, said mounting being provided with a central opening, a back plate secured to said mounting and surrounding the opening therein, and an ornament secured to said seat in front of the opening formed in the mounting,

6. An article of jewelry comprising a mounting formed from a metal plate and metallic fabric material overlying said plate and having its edges inturned thereover to provide a seat for an ornament, an ornament secured to said seat, and a support for said mounting comprising a member provided with a shank adapted to be inserted in said fabric and plate, and means for securing said shank against removal therefrom.

7. The method of making a mounting for jewelry which comprises, positioning a layer of metallic fabric upon one face of av plate of bendable metal, the metallic fabric being of slightly greater extent than the plate, bending the edges of said fabric over the edges of said metal, and then bending said metal and fabric inwardly throughout the entire periphery thereof whereby the metallic fabric completely overlies a substan tial portion of the metal plate.

8. The method of making a mounting for jewelry which comprises, positioning a layer of metallic fabric upon one face of a plate of bendable metal, the metallic fabric being of slightly greater extent than the plate, bending the edges of said fabric over the edges of said metal, bending said metal and fabric inwardly throughout the entire periphery thereof, perforating the metal fabric and plate to form an opening substantially centrally thereof, and securing an or namental stone to the inwardlv extending edges of said fabric whereby said ornamenta]. stone will be firmly secured thereto opposite the central opening in said plate and fabric.

9. The method of making a mounting for jewelry which comprises, placing a sheet of metallic fabric upon one side ofa plate of bendable metal, bending the edges of said metal and fabric inwardly upon the said metal whereby the metallic fabric completely overlies a substantial portion of the metal plate.

In testimony whereof I have affixed my signature.

GEORGE NV. DOVER. 

